I tried to do a quick test with my new roundover bit last night, but I could not find a workable quarter-inch shank collet. There are some in the “random” drawer, but they are hopelessly stripped. Do we have any good ones anywhere, or is this a bring-your-own item?
Also, I did a test anyway with a half-inch shank bit that was in the cabinet. The half-inch collet worked fine, but the router itself “crept up” while powered on. i.e. the bit actually moved higher through the table opening while running. Obviously not great for safety or results. After that, I cranked really hard on the tightening screw and it was fine, but is there anything more to it?
The hex wrench socket on the adjustment screw is also starting to get stripped. Still workable, but requires some care not to strip it further.
We tried to move all of the random collets away from the router table. There was supposed to be only the 1/4" and 1/2" collet in the drawer. It might be time to get a new one for the 1/4" size. The router table needs some tlc. We need to order a part for the locking mechanism. The locking mechanism is AL so it is soft and will fail again. I’m thinking of having a project where someone would machine it from steel.
Thanks, Joe. I’m willing to buy a quarter inch collet. I neglected to get the specs/model on the router itself while I was there. Do you happen to know the size/type we need?
There was a half inch Collett two days ago. I used it and it worked fine. I went in yesterday and it was gone. There were two 1/4 inch collects and some random collets that don’t seem to fit at all at the router table. Does anyone know what happened to the half inch Collett? I searched the workshop and was unable to find it. Also the half inch collet to the hand router was missing as well. I am hoping maybe somebody took it to woodcraft to match it.
I did volunteer to raise the table. I was thinking of a similar arrangement to the bandsaw with a base wit 2 fixed wheels and 2 that retract with a foot lever and allow the base to sit stable on the ground after moving. I mentioned it to Flip 2 days ago. I am new to the group and didn’t want to step on any toes. I will proceed unless someone objects or has a better idea. I also wanted to fix the back door and drawers and add dust collection. I didn’t know where we order parts or of we have available dust collection fittings and hardware. Flip said we may be getting another dust collector. At TechShop, we had a similar Sawstop with the router in the same table on the other side of the saw fence. There are pros and cons to that, Thoughts?
I just finished raising the router table. I raised the table top to the same height as the outside table. This is not high enough to allow the T track to go over the outfeed table as it is recessed into the table top. I have screws and feet on the bottom which can be raised. The current design is temporary, as I had problem with some brass inserts. I will probably fix it tomorrow and shorten the base a little. I did also put a piano hinge on the back door and a magnetic latch. I glued the front back on the random tools drawer that had fallen off and left it on a club table. The MDF had split apart. Gluing was the quick and dirty fix. In the future I can make a better quality drawer that won’t come apart. I thought about putting it on drawer glides. I drilled a hole for the power cord to go through the side instead of threw a notch in the back door. Have not yet put dust collection on it. I had a discussion with Danny about it. It is At least temporarily moved next to the outfeed table and the planer is moved where it used to be next to the jointer.
Did you want the Router table top and the outfeed table level with each other, or did you want the T track to go over the top of the outfeed table. Currently they are level with each other. It was a quick and dirty test fit.I just want to make sure the height is where we want it. I intend to put wheels in a locking mechanism for the final but wanted to make sure we got the height right first.
I could also put a small table top extension routed under the T track so that it’s not hanging out in space. It could then abut up against The outfeed table without danger of damaging the T track. The router fence could then extend over the outfeed table if needed
Sounds awesome. Pictures?
I’m thinking to set height at table surface level. That way, longer stock can feed in while supported. The tracks can hold the feather boards, near the bit.
This is great. I get to try it out this weekend. I’m starting in on my cabinet door frames.
I’ve already changed the feet. It has adjustable feet to raise and lower the height. I didn’t hear anything about dust collection equipment, so I I’m asking for forgiveness rather than permission. I bought a 4 inch three-way Y connector and two blast gates at woodcraft (they only had two. I could’ve use three.) I got a 90°4 inch connector for the back of the router table and a 4 inch to 2 1/2 inch adapter to connect to the router fence. The third part of the Y could be used for the jointer. I didn’t look to see if there’s a jointer plate adapter under the jointer in what size it was. Will just have to leave the class gate closed for now. I didn’t buy any hose because I didn’t know if we already had some. I’m just trying to move forward with the project. If anyone knows if we have 4 inch flexible dust collector hose please let me know. Also if we have 2 1/2 inch. I also glued together the drawers that were falling apart on the bottom as well as the random bit drawer. They were put together with the Kreg system, But the wood was split apart. I thought it was an easier solution to glue it back together rather than try to repair the Kreg system Malfunction. I did a quick and dirty Fixe to To the loose 120 V plug at the switch. I just shored it up with a block of wood. The frame around the plug is broken but the plug itself is fine. Next time I’m by a hardware store if I can find the correct banking piece I will get it. But it works fine with the quick and dirty fix. Should be electrically safe as it is wood. Speaking of plugs, the router runs on 120. The cord from the ceiling doesn’t reach all the way to the outside table in its current configuration. Everything is plugged in and works for it sits. If you want it all the way to the outfield table we will either have to move the overhead plug or extend the cord to the router. I’m willing to help with that as well.
